The post-war era presented several challenges for the Livingston Worsted Mills. Conversion from wartime production to peacetime, fabric pricing, changeover from wools to synthetics, tariff issues, and foreign competition all played a role in the business's next twenty years.
Plant growth continued in 1947. To relieve overcrowding in the central plant, Livingston moved into 10,000 square feet of space vacated by Cornwall Mills, which moved into the Holyoke Gas & Electric building on Jackson Street. Additionally, a three-story tower was built at the main factory to house toilets and washrooms, freeing space in the factory area.
A 25% tariff cut on imports of foreign woolen and worsted goods went into effect. The protected U.S. industries would face stiffer competition as a result of this cut. This would have little impact on raw wool, as Australian wool was much more expensive than American-sourced wool.
In 1948, the company sought and received a permit to convert existing space into a cafeteria. The cafeteria could seat 100 employees at a time, and opened at noon for the day shift and at supper for the evening shift workers.
In December 1948, Livingston began delivering worsted cloth for army officers' uniforms. Although the New England textile industry was struggling, the Livingston Worsted Mills were running at full capacity in early 1949.
However, Julius Sturberg indicated that the woolen, cotton, and rayon industries were all struggling, so pay raises could not be granted in 1949. The company was underbid for Army and Air Force contracts. In September 1949, a 30.5% devaluation of the British pound and other European currencies meant that although raw wool would cost less, woolen goods produced in Europe would have a competitive price advantage in the United States. The challenges were mounting for the American textile industry.
The company needed to adapt to a changing world. Innovation was part of this effort. The company started to sample a product called Vicara, a woolly fiber made from the protein called zein found in corn. Vicara could be mixed with wool, is unshrinkable, blends well with other fibers, and adds warmth. Vicara was selling for 40% to 60% less per pound than the better grade wools.
The company started to receive some military contracts, which kept the plant active in 1950. In 1951, the price of wool became prohibitive, so the company shifted its attention to rayon and wool blends. This was a nationwide reaction in the industry, as rayon-based clothing would sell for less than woolen clothing. Livingston was doing better than many other textile mills.
Dynel, Saran, and Orlon were some of the newly introduced synthetic fibers. The Livingston Mill would not have to change out its equipment, as it was designed to adapt to different fibers.
In 1952, there were some communities in the southern U.S. making overtures to lure the Livingston Worsted Mills. Julius H. Stursberg indicated that the company would remain in Holyoke.
The company was becoming more involved with synthetics. Competition was growing from Uruguay and England in the area of woolens. Wage levels were lower than in the U.S., the foreign currency was devalued, and companies in this country were insufficiently protected by tariffs. There was no longer a sustainable model for profitability in producing woolens in this country. The company was flexible and pivoted to synthetics. New machinery was brought in from companies in Whittinsville, MA, and Saco, ME to assist in the transition. Livingston's employment was reduced over two years, 1950 to 1952, from 800 to 500 employees.
By 1954, the company was on an upswing, as the transition to synthetics and wool blends was improving business and profitability. The workforce was approximately 400, and the plant was operating at 50% capacity. The company continued to evolve and adjust to the times and conditions. To that, Julius H. Stursberg deserves much credit for navigating the increasingly murky waters of the textile industry.
The final chapter follows in the history of the Stursberg family's century of contributions to the textile industry, Holyoke's history, and the many who were employed by this family business.
Newspapers.com (paid subscription): Citations: Holyoke (Massachusetts) Transcript & Transcript-Telegram; publication dates and pages are shown.
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